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This device is intended for experienced
metaphysics practitioners or serious researchers, and / or for the purpose
of charging Ergonite while it cures. Devices of this size can sometimes achieve
weather effects, if used in the right manner, but is not a substitute for a
Chembuster. The design given here is highly adaptable, and can be modified to
suit your needs. The device is simple enough that it may be somewhat
anticlimactic for you when you see how it's made.
A device like this transcribes an audio signal
into radionic data, and provides a strong emission of Bioenergy to carry the
radionic data. It requires that a person use the device with purpose and
control, as opposed to simpler orgone tools like TBs. It can radically improve
the quality of orgone matrix material made by the home builder. This device is a
lot more powerful than a pulser, but less user friendly.
This device is not portable, but rather
requires a stationary setup and the input of electrical power, a home computer
and an audio amplifier (you can use the amplified speakers of a PC sound
system). This device offers flexibility in that you can easily change out
the core xtal or object. Some materials may not be especially healthy for you
when you expose them to scalar waves, and you are responsible for your own
decision to make and use this device. Depending on how much voltage you put
through it you may or may not harm electronics in the area. I have found that
relatively low voltages on the RingGen suffice.
Materials
used in the example below:
- 30 feet of 14 or 15 gage insulated copper wire.
- One large quartz crystal. There is a picture to the right of the xtal I used
for the device shown. It does not have to be a nice DT like the one I used, but
it should be about that size. In a pinch, you can also use several; smaller
xtals together to get about the same amount of xtal mass. I got this xtal from
ZSL, a generous gift on his part. He got it from the crystal man (in Canada).
Another good place to get xtals is from revted (in America).
- 6 Plastic binder straps.
- Some aluminum tape.
- Enough stuff to make at least 1 liter of Ergonite.
- The rings from 2 mason jar lids.
- A small shelving unit made from metal mesh of some kind. I used an old LP
record rack, flipped upside down. You could make one from pieces of window
screen stretched across a frame, or see what you can find in your garage or the
second hand store. It should be a shelf that has the individual shelves made out
of a metal GRID or SLATS, so that there is an open mesh, not solid pieces of
metal. On the next one I make, I will probably use copper screens for the mesh.
I have not tried using aluminum for the shelves, but I think steel or copper
would be better for the shelves. Steel works well, I can attest to that.
- A large diameter hemispherical piece of metal to use as a reflector. I used
the canister lid of an old steam cleaning rental unit I happened to have, you
could use a large wok lid, or a large metal mixing bowl. It does not have to be
a perfect parabolic curve, and aluminum will work for the reflector. It should
be at least 12 inches in diameter. The metal should be bare on the inside of the
reflector, it can be covered with paint or enamel on the outside.
- A long section of speaker wire (2 wires) to connect the device to your PC.
- A household stereo, boom box, or any other audio equipment that has an
amplifier built into it, and also has a line in or auxiliary input jack so you
can route the signal from your PC's sound card through it. I use an ancient
8-track player that has a 50 watt amplifier in it.
- Adapters to connect you PC sound output to the line in of the amplifier.
- Tone generator software for your PC. You can download it off the web, and
there are some links provided on the links page of this site where you can find
it. Roberto Forcen's stuff is amazing, his site is
http://www.voicesync.org He has
wonderful donaware for sound generation and analysis. Also, NCH toner
http://www.nch.com.au/tonegen/
is a very adaptable and functional tone generator for your PC with a range from
1 to about 20,000 Hz with control over the waveform. You can also run multiple
copies of the program and generate multiple tones at the same time.
Simple Building it info
Build
yourself a large mobius coil. Make it big enough you can fit a large xtal in
the core, about 2.5" to 3" diameter. It does not have to be a fancy xtal. It can
be single point. On the old device shown here I used a single knot mobius coil,
but on my new one I am using the continuous knot style. Secure the coil with
plastic binders to prevent it from losing it's shape. The coil shown here is
from 15 gage magnet wire, and while I recommend using at least 18 gage, it does
not have to be magnet wire. magnet wire just works a little better. It isn't
necessary to use magnet wire.
Using
aluminum tape, connect 2 mason jar rings to the coil as shown. Work the tape
firmly into place, and use at least one full wrap of tape all the way around,.
This is not only for the effect of a metal shroud on the coil, it is to keep the
Ergonite from leaking into the coil. Do your best to line the rings up evenly
with each other, so that the ring on one end is parallel to and plumb with the
ring on the the other end. Pull the leads from the coil out through the center,
or if you want to be more precise you can form a little hole in the tape to pass
the leads through, and fill the hole with glue so it doesn't leak.
Find
a suitable mold that is cylindrical, and deep enough to come up to the top
of the coil assembly you have just built. It should be at least deep enough that
you can cast Ergonite up to the top of the coil assembly, and wide enough that
there is at least one inch of Ergonite all the way around the outside of the
coil. On the generator I use now there is a lot more Ergonite than on the old
one shown here. The old one shown here worked well enough to impress me several
times with its effectiveness. Coat the mold with release agent of some form,
regular vegetable oil or WD40 will both work fine. If you are using Ergonite
made from polyester auto body filler, you do not have to seal the bottom of the
coil assembly to the mold. If you are using Ergonite made from resin, you will
have to seal the bottom of the coil assembly to the mold so resin does not leak
under the coil assembly into the cavity at the center. You want to cast a ring
of Ergonite with a hollow center where the coil is. A little hot melt glue works
well for this (sealing it), since it will keep the resin from leaking into the
hole, and is easily removable. It also sets fast, so you don't have to wait for
it to dry like you would silicone or goop glue.
Cast
it with MHD, HD or XHD Ergonite. Allow the Ergonite to cure, and remove the
coil cast in Ergonite from the mold. You should now have a hollow cylinder of
Ergonite with a coil in the center of it. Place the cylinder with the coil in
the center of the reflector as shown below. You can fasten it with a little glue
if you want. Then place the reflector on the lowest shelf of the metal shelving
unit as shown below. The quartz xtal goes in the hole inside the coil, as I
imagine ought to be obvious. You can also easily remove and change xtals this
way. I have a large cluster of kyanite which I use inside the coil too, gives a
great energy. Let your imagination be your guide. Experiment with using
different minerals and other things inside the coil, but be aware that not
everything you put in there will work as well as a quartz xtal. A safer way to
experiment is to ADD things in there with the quartz xtal, and see what kind of
orgone they produce before you try them alone. Now you're ready to hook it up.
If you want to, you can line the metal shelf up with the compass directions
(I.E. so that one side of it faces north) but this is not necessary, it just
makes it work a bit more efficiently). The metal shelves and reflector should be
insulated from each other electrically, or at least that is the way I find it
works best so far. The metal rings on the ends of the cylinder do not have to be
electrically insulated from the metal of the reflector.
Not
only do the metal screens act like an RF antenna, they also provide a convenient
surface for exposing samples. If you are making orgone matrix material, you can
put your molds on them while the resin is curing. The metal in the shelves
pulses in rhythm to the scalar energy coming off the coil. Further refinements
to the design involve proportions of the parts in relation to each other and the
use of more advanced Ergonite technology.
If you are going to use the device for radionics,
then use the metal shelves as your witness well. You can also use the cavity
inside the coil as witness well, but the energy sent to target that way may not
be beneficial unless there is a quartz xtal in the coil along with it. If you
want to generate a local cloud of healthy orgone, then drop a large TB inside
the coil and run at 741 Hz with free tone generator software. If you have a wand
or orgone beamer of some form, you could use that as the core most likely also.
You
take the signal from your PC's sound card, route it through your amplifier,
and then run it through the coil in the device. There are several ways you can
do this, and no doubt those of you familiar with electronics will see that there
are better ways than the method I have illustrated. I chose this method for this
page because it is simple. Just use the adapter to connect the sound output from
your PC to the line in or aux input of the amplifier. Then take one of the wire
pairs leading to a speaker from the stereo, and cut ONE of the wires leading to
the speaker. Leave the other wire intact. Preferably, use the positive wire.
Then, connect the leads of the coil in the device to either end of the speaker
wire which you have cut. This has the downside that you have to listen to the
sounds being generated, but it PROTECTS YOUR AMPLIFIER from blowing. Mobius
coils have very low resistance, and if you connect it directly to the amplifier
output without having enough resistance you may damage your amp. The resistance
in the method of connection shown is provided by the speaker. The current comes
from the PC, is amplified by the amp, then goes through the coil. After it
leaves the coil it goes through the speaker and back into the circuit.
Alternately,
you could add a resistor to the mobius coil to give it enough resistance
that the amp will not perceive it as a short. In order to do this, you would
need to find out what resistance your speakers are. Usually the speakers are
marked (inside the speaker box on the back of the speaker magnet) with a little
number beside an ohm symbol. This is the resistance. An ohm symbol looks like a
little "O" with the bottom cut off and two little tails (Greek letter omega).
If
you use a device like this to charge your Ergonite while it cures, you can
increase the potency of your Ergonite significantly. Some suggested frequencies:
4Hz, 7.8Hz, 15 Hz, 32 Hz, 528Hz, 741 Hz, 5000Hz, 5075 Hz.
©2002-2006 Jon Logan
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